Once of the most amazing things about living in Singapore is the mix of so many different backgrounds and religions. As a result, I have had the opportunity to experience religious festivals and cultural traditions that I had never even heard of before moving here. Today was a perfect example of something amazingly different.
Thaispusam is a Hindu festival celebrated mostly by the Tamil community on the full moon in the Tamil month of Thai (January/February). It is celebrated in countries where there's a large presence of Tamil people and Singapore is one of those places. Tamils are an ethnic group who speak Tamil as their native tongue and they are spread all around Asia (Tamils comprise 15% of Sri Lanka population, 6% India and Malaysia and 5% Singapore as the largest groups). It commemorates the time when Parvati gave Murugan a spear so he could kill the devil Soorapadman. The festival focuses on a Kavadi which means a physical burden pledge in return for help from the God Murugan. The Hindus offer a Kavadi to ask for avoidance of some major misfortune.
For 48 days prior to this festival the devotees fast and prayer, eating only one small meal a day. When the day of the festival arrives, devotees shave their heads and undertake this pilgrimage while showing their devotion by carrying Kavadis (burdens). These Kavadis often involve spears through the tongue and/or cheeks as well as spears piercing the skin itself. Some carry large Kavadi canopies for the 4.5 kilometers, using their skin to support the burden. Those on the pilgrimage are each carrying jugs of milk which must arrive at the temple without a drop spilled.
It's hard to describe what this was like to watch although one thing I continually thought was that these people must have an enormous amount of belief in their gods to go to these extremes to ask for their help. What it must feel like to have such a certain and strong belief in something - to go to the pain and exhaustion that these people were undertaking.
We watched the dressing of the devotees for the pilgrimage and the blessing before they began as well as the pilgrimage itself before arriving at the temple where the pilgrimage ended. I saw people collapsing or fainting as it started and many more as they arrived at the temple to give their milk offering. I am not sure whether the collapsing was due to exhaustion, pain or happiness at it's completion. If I had not eaten more than one meal a day for 48 days (along with no sex, only pure Satvik food and continual prayers), I might have collapsed as well even if I was carrying nothing at all!
I think that pictures are the only way to help people understand what this pilgrimage must have been like. I was uncomfortable taking pictures originally but the families of those carrying these Kavadis were actual happy to have their pilgrimages documented by others and did not seem at all shy about having their picture taken. The incense that was burning constantly made the pictures smokey looking and the constant drumming certainly gave me a headache but the purpose of both was to help the participants move their body into a trance like state where they would feel no pain. Not sure it worked.
Preparing to be pierced
Checking out his buddy who just was pierced!
His wife being pierced - she almost fainted and then began this sort of trance-like dance where she adorned her other family members in a red chalk.
Spear through the cheeks and through the tongue (so you can not talk during the pilgrimage)
Kavadi to be carried
Another Kavadi
This man is pulling a cart through hooks in his back - a significant Kavadi!
Carrying a Kavadi with his face pierced
Spears to be used in one adornment
Hooking the Kavadi to his body
This man is carrying his Kavadi and the spears help stabilize it in his skin
Another set of spears awaiting placement
Temple statues
More statues
The entrance to the temple
Carrying their jugs of milk .....
...without letting a drop of the milk be spilled
The juxtaposition of the traditional pilgrimage versus the tourist bus going through Little India behind it!
All ages participate in the pilgrimage
The Tamil don't all look Indian although this family was the exception
Carrying small jugs of milk on his back
Carrying lemons (limes) to the temple on his back
Walking with his family and carrying his jug of milk (not on his head as the elders do)
Preparing to have his Kavadi spears removed
Father and son
Spear removed from his cheeks and tongue - very little blood which seemed amazing
This mad is carrying his Kavadi with it literally bolted into his waist
Note the bolts at the bottom. Amazing dedication to his religion.